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The British are a most curious nation in many aspects. When a  tourist
from whatever continent comes to  visit  Britain  the  first  conclusion  he
arrives at is how bizarre the people living there are. The  main  reason  to
their uniqueness will certainly lie on the  surface:  Great  Britain  is  an
island that had to grow up and all the long way of its history  alone  being
separated from the rest of the world by great amounts of  water.  This  very
characteristics turned them into not only a  curious  nation,  but  also  an
interesting and special one, whose history and culture one  of  the  richest
in the world. And the water surrounding the island played not a  minor  part
in its forming. So the British people respect  and  cherish  their  “watery”
neighbour who from the earliest stages of their history up to now gave  them
food, drink, work, power, respect of other nations,  wealth  and  after  all
entertainment.  It  inspired  a  huge  number  of  stries,  tales,  poems  ,
superstitions and prejudicies and it  has  always  been  worshipped  by  the
people.
      The field of the country’s economy connected with water was  always  a
great concern for those who  ruled  it  for  they  naturally  attached  much
importance to it. From the times when the English  society  was  being  born
and only beginning to take shape kings already would interest themselves  in
the conditions of trading across the sea. In the eleventh century Cnut on  a
pilgrimage to Rome took the opportunity of obtaining from  the  Emperor  and
other rulers he met there greater security and reduction of  talls  for  his
subjects, traders and others, travelling in  their  lands.  Already  in  the
eighth century an English merchant called Botta was settled  at  Marceilles,
perhaps as an agent for collecting goods to be sold in England.  The  Viking
rades of the late  eighth   and  ninth  centuries  disrupted  trade  on  the
Continent, but Englishmen may well have  taken  part  in  the  Baltic  trade
opened up by this time. At  least,  there  is  no  reason  to  deny  English
nationality to a certain Wulfstan who described to  King  Alfred  a  journey
taken to the Frisches Haff; he has an English name.
      On the other hand, we hear of foreign traders in  England  from  early
times. Bede speaks of London as the “mart of many nations, resorting  to  it
by sea and land”, and mentions the  purchase  of  a  captive  by  a  Frisian
merchant in London. But  the  strongest  evidence  for  the  amount  of  sea
traffic in Frisian hands is the assumption of an  Anglo-Saxon  poet  that  a
seaman is likely to have a Frisian wife:

              Dear is the welcome guest to the Frisian woman when the  ship
         comes to land. His ship is come and her husband, her  own  bread  –
         winner, is at home, and she invites  him  in,  washes  his  stained
         raiment and gives him new clothes, grants him on land what his love
         demands.

      Men from other lands came also. At the end  of  the  tenth  century  a
document dealing with trade in London speaks of men  from  Rouen,  Flanders,
Ponthieu, Normandy, France; from about the same date comes a description  of
York as the resort of merchants from all quarters, especially Danes.
      The merchants and seamen plied an honoured trade. The poets speak with
appreciation of the seaman “who can boldly drive the ship  across  the  salt
sea” or “can steer the stem on the dark wave, knows  the  currents,  (being)
the pilot of the company over the  wide  ocean”,  and  it  was  at  least  a
current opinion in the early eleventh century  that  the  merchant  who  had
crossed the sea three times at his own cost should be entitled to a  thane’s
rank. The merchant in Aelfric’s “Colloquy” stresses the dangers of his lot:

            I go  on board my ship with my freight and row over the regions
       of the sea, and sell my goods and buy precious things which  are  not
       produced in this land, and I bring it hither to you with great danger
       over the sea, and sometimes I suffer shipwreck with the loss  of  all
       my goods, barely escaping with my life.


      As we see people working in the sea  or  over  the  seas  gained  much
respect in the society and were loved  by   others.  But  so  much  for  the
economical aspect. The water, as we already mentioned earlier,  was  one  of
the greatest attractions as a source of entertainment.
      Fishing, like hunting, was highly popular in England, but  these  were
pleasures reserved for the nobility. In the twelfth century, when the  kings
had normally been so strong, they had  claimed  such  oppressive  fishing  –
rights that all the classes had united in protest. One  of  the  demands  of
the rebels in 1381 was that hunting and fishing should  be  common  to  all;
not only was this refused, but in 1390 Parliament enacted a penalty for  one
year’s imprisonment for everyone who should presume to keep hunting  –  dogs
or use ferrets or snares to catch deer, rabbits, or any other game.  Fishing
and hunting, said the statute, was the sport for gentlefolk.
      So this is a scetch or  an  outline  of  reasons  explaining  why  our
ancestors valued so much the rivers, lakes, seas of their land – and  it  is
worth mentioning that their  land  abounds  in  all  that  –  and  why  they
respected the  work  of  sailors,  merchants  or  travellers.  All  this  is
important for the understanding of how it was becoming an  unseparable  part
of their culture and how it is reflected in their culture.  In this work  we
would like to pay close attention to just one   aspect  of  the  whole  rich
cultural inheritance, and that is folklore.



CHAPTER 2

      What  is  folklore?   Funk  and  Wagnall’s  “Standard  Dictionary   of
Folklore, Mythology and Legend” (1972) offers a staggering  22  definitions,
running to half a dozen pages. In recent years definitions  have  tended  to
be all – embracing  in  their  simplicity:  folklore  is  made  up  of  “the
traditional stories,  customs  and  habits  of  a  particular  community  or
nation” says the “Collins Cobuild Dictionary” of 1987.
      More specific definitions also abound;  perhaps,  folklore  should  be
identified as the community’s commitment  to  maintaining  stories,  customs
and habits purely for their own sake. ( A perfect example of this  would  be
the famous horse race at Siena in Italy: the   p a l  i  o    attracts  many
thousands of tourists, yet if not a single outsider attend,  the  people  of
the community would still support the event year after year).
      But what about those  events  or  beliefs  which  have  been  recently
initiated or which are sustained for reasons of commercial gain or  tourism?
Many customs are not as ancient as  their  participants  may  claim  but  it
would be foolish to dismiss them  as  irrelevant.  Some  apparently  ancient
customs are, in fact, relatively modern, but does this mean they  cannot  be
termed  as  folklore?  The  spectacular  fire  festival  at  Allendale,  for
instance, feels utterly authentic despite the fact that there is  no  record
of the event prior to 1853. There are many other  cases  of  new  events  or
stories which have rapidly assumed organic growth and therefore deserve  the
status of being recognised as folklore.
      Any work covering the question of folklore must be selective, but here
we shall attempt  to  explore  and  celebrate  the  variety  and  vigour  of
Britain’s  folklore  concerning   “waterworld”   traditions,   beliefs   and
superstitions. A wide geographical area is covered:  England,  Scotland  and
Wales with some reference to Ireland and other territories.
      Entire books – indeed, whole libraries of books – have been written on
every aspect of folklore: on epitaphs and weather lore,  folk  medicine  and
calendar customs, traditional drama and sports and pastimes,  superstitions,
ghosts and witchcraft, fairs, sea monsters and many others. While trying  to
cram much into little work I have avoided  generalisation.  Precise  details
such as names, dates and localities are given wherever  possible  and  there
are some references to features that still can be  seen  -   a  mountain,  a
bridge, a standing stone or a carving in a church.
      Classic folklore belongs within the country to the basic unit  of  the
parish. Most parishes could produce at least a booklet and in some  cases  a
substantial volume on their own folklore, past and present . It would  be  a
mistake, however, to think that rural  customs,  dance  and  tale  were  the
whole picture, because there is a  rich  picture  of  urban  and  industrial
folklore as well – from the office girl’s  prewedding  ceremonies  to  urban
tales of phantom hitchhickers and stolen corpses.
      In this age of fragmentation, speed and stress, people often  seem  to
thirst for something in which they can take an active part. There is a  need
to rediscover something which is more permanent and  part  of  a  continuing
tradition. By tapping into our  heritage  of  song  and  story,  ritual  and
celebration, our lives are given shape and meaning.
      In some cases all we have to do is join in with an activity  which  is
already happening; in others it will perhaps mean  reviving  a  dance  or  a
traditional play. But however we  choose  to  participate,  as  long  as  we
continue to use, adapt and develop the elements of our folklore heritage  it
will survive.
      So this work may be regarded as an attempt to encourage us all to seek
out  the  stories  and  customs  of  country,  county,  town,  village,   to
understand and enjoy them and to pass them on.


       THE WATERY WORLD

      Not a single town or village  in  England  is  situated  more  than  a
hundred miles from the sea, except for a few places  in  the  Midlands,  and
most of those in Wales and Scotland are nearer  still.  The  coastline  lies
for thousands of miles, with  a  host  of  off-shore  islands  ranging  from
Scilly to Shetland and Wight to Lewis. It is  hardly  surprising  then  that
our long and eventful maritime history is complemented by  a  rich  heritage
of nautical stories and superstitions, beliefs and customs,  many  of  which
continue to affect our daily lives – even oil rigs, very much a twentieth  –
century phenomenon, have tales of their own.  Inland  water,  too,  are  the
subjects of stories which echoes the folklore of the coasts and seas.


      BENEATH THE WAVES

      Many tales are told of submerged lands, and of  church  bells  ringing
ominously from beneath the waves. Between Land’s End and the Scilly  Islands
lies a group of rocks called The Seven Stones, known to  fishermen  as  “The
City” and near to which the land of Lyoness is believed to lie,  lost  under
the sea. There is a rhyme  which proclaims:

                                              Between Land’s End and  Scilly
Rocks
                                              Sunk lies a  town  that  ocean
mocks.


      Lyoness was said to have had 140  churches.  These  and  most  of  its
people were reputed to have been engulfed during  the  great  storrn  of  11
November 1099. One man called Trevilian  foresaw the deluge, and  moved  his
family and stock inland – he was making  a  last  journey  when  the  waters
rose, but managed to outrun the advancing waves thanks to the  fleetness  of
his horse. Since then the arms of the grateful Trevilian  have  carried  the
likeness of a horse issuing from the sea.  A  second  man  who  avoided  the
catastrophe erected a chapel in thanksgiving which stood for centuries  near
Sennen Cove.
      Another area lost under water  is  Cantre’r  Gwaelod,  which  lies  in
Cardigan Bay somewhere between the river Teifi and Bardsey  Island.  Sixteen
towns and most of their inhabitants were apparently overwhelmed by  the  sea
when the sluice gates in the protective dyke were left open. There  are  two
versions of the story as to who was responsible: in  one  it  is  a  drunken
watchman called Seithenin; in another, Seithenin was a  king  who  preferred
to spend his revenue in dissipation rather than in paying for the upkeep  of
the coastal defences.
      A moral of one kind or another will often be the basis of tales  about
inland  settlements  lost  beneath  water.  For  example  Bomere   Lake   in
Shropshire – now visited as a beauty spot was created one  Easter  Eve  when
the town which stood there was submerged as a punishment  for  reverting  to
paganism. One Roman soldier was spared because he  had  attempted  to  bring
the people backto Christianity, but he then lost his life  while  trying  to
save the woman he loved. It is said that his ghost  can  sometimes  be  seen
rowing across the lake at Easter, and that the town,s  bells  can  be  heard
ringing. There is another version of the same story in the same  place,  but
set in Saxon times: the people turn to Thor and Woden at  a  time  when  the
priest is warning  that  the  barrier  which  holds  back  the  meter  needs
strengthening. He  is  ignored,  but  as  the  townsfolk  are  carousing  at
Yuletide the water bursts in and destroys them.
      There is a cautionary tale told of Semerwater,  another  lake  with  a
lost village in its depth. Semerwater lies in north Yorkshire not  far  from
Askrigg, which is perhaps better known as the centre of  “Herriot  country”,
from the veterinary stories  of  James  Herriot.   The  story  goes  that  a
traveller – variously given as an angel, St Paul,  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  a
witch, and Christ in the guise of a poor  old  man  –  visited  house  after
house seeking food and drink , but at each one was  turned  away,  until  he
reached a Quaker’s  home,  just  beyond  the  village:  htis  was  the  only
building spared in the avenging flood that followed.
      One lost land off the Kent coast can be partially seen at  high  tide:
originally, the Goodwin Sands were in fact an island, the  island  of  Lomea
which according to one version disappeared under the waves in  the  eleventh
century when funds for its  sea  defences  were  diverted  to  pay  for  the
building of a church tower at Tenterden. The blame for that is laid  at  the
door of a n abbot of St Augustine’s at Canterbury  who  was  both  owner  of
Lomea and rector of Tenterden. However, sceptics say that Tenterden  had  no
tower before the sixteenth century, nor can archeologists find any trace  of
habitation or cultivation of the sands. Even so, the tales  continue  to  be
told; one of these blame Earl Godwin, father of King Harold,  for  the  loss
of the island. He earl promised to build a steeple at  Tenterden  in  return
for safe delivery from a battle, but having survived the battle,  he  forgot
the vow and in retribution Lomea, which  he  owned,  was  flooded  during  a
great storm. The Sands still bear his name.
      Yet worse was to follow, for scores of ships and the lives of some  50
000 sea farers have been lost on the Goodwins, and ill-fortune seems to  dog
the area. For example, in 1748 the “Lady Lovibond” was  deliberatly  steered
to her destruction on the Sands by the mate  of  the  vessel,  John  Rivers.
Rivers was  insanely  jealeous  because  his  intended  bride,  Anetta,  had
foresaken him to marry his captain, Simon Reed.  The  entire  wedding  party
perished with the ship in the midst of the celebrations, but the  remarkable
thing is that the scene made a phantom reappearance once every  fifty  years
– until 1948, when the “Lady  Lovibond”  at  last  failed  to  re-enact  the
drama.
      Another fifty -  year  reappearance concerns  the  Nothumberland;  she
was lost on the Goodwind sands in 1703 in a storm, along with  twelve  other
men – of  - war, but  in 1753 seen again by the crew of an East  Indiaman  –
sailors were leaping in to the water from the stricken vessel  though  their
shouts and screams could not be heard.
      The Nothumberland was under the command  of Sir Cloudesley Shovel,  to
whom is attached a further  tale.  Three  years  afterwards,  the  admiral’s
flagship, the Association, was wrecked on the Gilstone Rock near the  Scilly
Isles. The fleet was homeward bound after a triumphant campaign against  the
French and some maintain that the crews were  drunk.  But  the  story  which
Scillonians believe to this day is that a sailor aboard the flagship  warned
that the fleet was dangerously near the islands, and that for  this  he  was
hanged at the yardarm for unsubordination, on the admiral’s orders. The  man
was granted a last request to read from the Bible, and  turned  to  the  109
psalm: “ Let his days be few and another take his place.  Let  his  children
be fatherless and his wife a widow”. As he read the  ship  began  to  strike
the rocks.
      The admiral was a very stout man and his buoyancy  was  sufficient  to
carry him ashore alive, though very weak. However, official  searches  found
him dead, stripped off his clothing and valuables, including a fine  emerald
ring. The body was taken to Westminster Abbey for interment, and  his  widow
appealed in vain for the return of the ring. Many years later  a  St  Mary’s
islander confessed on the deathbed that she had  found  Sir  Cloudesley  and
had “squeezed the life out of him” before taking  his  belongongs.  The  hue
and cry had forced her to abandon the idea of selling the emerald,  but  she
had felt unable to die in peace before revealing her crime.
      A commemorative stone marks the place where  the  admiral’s  body  was
temporarily buried in the shingle of Porth Hellick, on St Mary’s Island.  No
grass grows over the grave.


      THE WRECK OF THE RAMILIES

      Many hundreds of shipwrecks have their own songs and stories. Although
the Ramilies, for example, was wrecked well over 200  years  ago,  tradition
perpetuates the event as clearly as if it had happened  only  yesterday.  In
February 1760 the majestic, ninety – gun, triple  decked  ship  was  outward
bound from Plymouth to Quiberon Bay when hurricane – force winds blew up  in
the Channel and forced the  captain  to  turn  back  and  run  for  shelter.
Sailing East , the master thought he had passed Looe Island,  and  had  only
to round Rame Head to reach the safety of Plymouth Sound. In fact  the  ship
was a bay further on and the land sighted was Burgh Island, in Bigbury  Bay.
The Promontory was Bolt Tail with its four hundred foot cliffs,  and  beyond
lay no safe harbour at all, but several miles of precipitous rocks. As  soon
as the sailing master realised his mistake the ship was  hove  to,  but  the
wind was so violent that the masts immediately snapped and  went  overboard.
The two anchores that were dropped held fast, but their cables  fouled  each
other, and after hours of fierce friction, they  parted  and  the  ship  was
driven to destruction on the rocks.
      Of more than seven hundred men on board only about two  dozen  reached
safety. Led by Midshipman John Harrold, they scrambled  up  the  cliffs,  by
pure luck choosing the one  place  where  this  was  possible.  Next  day  a
certain William Locker travelled to the scene to try to  find  the  body  of
his friend, one of the officers. Locker himself would have been  aboard  the
“Ramillies” but his lieutenant’s commission had come from the admiralty  too
late, arriving just a few hours after she had sailed. He  found  the  shores
of Bigbury Bay strewn with hundreds of corpses, their clothing torn away  by
the sea’s  pounding, their features unrecognisable. The village  nearest  to
the scene of the wreck was Inner Hope, and some there still maintain that  a
Bigbury man aboard  the  “Ramillies”  pleaded  with  the  captain  to  alter
course; but he was clapped in irons, and went down with the ship.  They  say
that only one officer survived  because others were prevented  from  leaving
the stricken vessel.
      Most of the bodies were washed ashore at Thurlestone, a few  miles  to
the west. There used to be a depression in the village  green  which  marked
the place where many of the seamen had been buried in a   mass  grave;  this
has now been asphalted to make a carpark. Then in the mid –  1960s  a  child
digging in a sand dune found a bone. He showed it to a man on the beach  who
happened to be  a  doctor  and  identified  it  as  human.  Further  digging
revealed the skeletons of ten men, small in stature and  buried  in  five  –
foot intervals  -- perhaps these had been washed up after the  mass  burial.
No scrap of clothing or equipment was found,  and  finally  the  bones  were
thrown into a lorry  and  consigned  to  a  rubbish  tip.  Even  though  two
centuries have elapsed since their deaths, one feels that  the  men  of  the
“Ramillies” deserved better. The ship still lies six  fathoms  down  in  the
cove which which has borne her name since 1760, and  Wise’s  Spring  on  the
cliffs is called after one of the seamen who scrambled ashore with the  tiny
band of survivors.


      PORTENTS OF DISASTER

      Great pains are taken when first launching a vessel so  as  to  ensure
good fortune, and one of the most important portents is  the  ritual  bottle
of champagne which must break first time ( the liquid may  be  a  substitute
for the blood of a sacrifice ). It is interesting that the various ships  to
bear the name “Ark Royal” have always  been  lucky;  for  example  when  the
World War 11 vessel sunk there was minimal loss of life. The  original  ship
dated from Elizabethan times and had a crucifix placed beneath the  mainmast
by the captain’s mistress; this apparently secured the good fortune for  all
her successors. On the other hand there are vessels which  seem  perpetually
unlucky, some even jinxed and quite incapable of escaping misfortune.
      Brunel’s fine ship the “Great Eastern”  was  launched  in  1858  after
several ominously unsuccessful attempts. She ruined the man  in  whose  yard
she was built, and caused a breakdown in Brunel’s  health  –  he  died  even
before her maiden voyage. And despite her immense technical advantages,  she
was never successful as the passenger  - carrying vessel.
      In 1895 she was in port in Holyhead. When the “Royal  Charter”  sailed
by, homeward bound from Australia, the passengers expressed a desire to  see
her and their captain was only too pleased  to  oblige.  However,  the  ship
strayed off course and a wild storm blew up.  The  ship  was  wrecked,  with
great loss of life. Some of the trouble was attributed to  the  story  of  a
riveter and his boy who were said to have been accidentally  sealed  to  the
famous double hull. Unexplained knockings were heard at  various  times  but
although searches were made, nothing was found. When the vessel  was  broken
up at New Ferry, Cheshire, in 1888  it was rumoured that two sceletons  were
discovered, their bony fingers still clenched round the worn – down  hammers
which had beaten in vain for rescue.
      The “Victoria” was commissioned on Good Friday, the thirteenth of  the
month – and if this were not ill-luck enough, the fact that her  name  ended
in ‘a’ was considered another bad sign. In 1893 she sank with  heavy  losses
after a collision during the manoeuvres in  the  Mediterranean  off  Beirut,
and interestingly, various things happened  which  indicated  calamity:  two
hours earlier a fakir had actually predicted disaster, and at  the  time  of
the collision crowds had gathered at the dockyards gates in Malta, drawn  by
an instinctive apprehension of 

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